Achleek – April 2024 – day 6

After the past three days of rushing about it was nice to have quiet day today. After breakfast we headed over (well round) the loch to Strontian and parked up in the Ariundle Oakwood National Nature Reserve. We had no other objective than to have a wander about but, as luck would have it, there was a well-signposted walk around these ancient oak woodlands.

The start of our walk

It was, as you see bright & sunny but there was a fierce cold edge to the breeze which called for hats & gloves! That said there was a significant variation in that depending on even a slight change in altitude. We found a (dead) tree with interesting fungus – probably Horse Hoof Fungus.

Horse Hoof times 2

The woodland is, in parts, fairly sparse and there were a good few dead trees, something we have seen a lot here (not counting the obvious forestry tax dodges). At all points the walk was very well maintained whether track, boardwalk or bridge and signage was enough but discreet.

The main path + Ally
Boardwalk – you can just make out the replacement bits
One of the bridges + Ally again

There were also (not pictured) several comfy benches on the walk – always a bonus! Near one of them we discovered a cairn for Pip.

RIP (we assume) PIP

That was really it for the walk and for the day barring a visit to a quirky visitor centre café – excellent coffee and significantly heavy and very tasty pastries. My chocolate brownie would have fed a whole platoon and kept them going for a week! We returned home to have a restful afternoon reading & chatting as well as preparing for tonight’s dinner. I’m on cooking duty but I prepared my chilli last (and froze) my chilli last week. Defrosting needed some extra assistance from a complicated microwave with very tiny writing on it!

One last tree – towering above the rest

Posted in Achleek - April 2024

Achleek – April 2024 – days 3, 4 & 5

Because we have been enjoying this holiday so much these (usually) daily updates have fallen by the wayside a little. So a compendium of the last 3 days as we contemplate our last full day.

Monday – after the lovely day that Sunday was we woke to a more overcast day. Our objective for the day was to explore more of the Morvern peninsula (where Sunday lunch was taken). We headed to Ardtonish Castle Gardens and spent a very pleasant time wandering around. A lovely place with an impressive house, clock tower and altogether very pleasant. We returned to the cottage and spent the afternoon chatting, eating drinking and generally having exactly the kind of holiday we wanted.

Simple, quiet place
Nice bridge!
The big house & clock tower
Another cracking sunset

Tuesday – what a glorious morning! Our plan was simple – Mull – so back across the Morvern peninsula to Lochaline to pick up the ferry to Fishnish. It was glorious – coffee was taken at the Bakery & Tearoom, we spotted the Edward the 8th postbox and, most importantly, lunch. The Fisherman’s Pier wins awards and rightly so – sitting by the clock tower munching on haddock, chips & mushy peas is a great thing to do. A couple of purchases were made and we headed back tired but happy.

Incoming ferry
Elevenses!
A rare post box
Luncheon

Wednesday – with another fine day in prospect we packed a lot into the day. I was determined to get out for a local walk – the choice is limited as we are in deer country so much of the land is fenced off. A good walk nevertheless. Once back & breakfasted we set off to explore the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Oh my – what a trip that was! Narrow single track roads, a stunning viewpoint an excellent coffee in Kilchoan and the (community owned) lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point. Back here we had a simple pasta meal and an early night.

Tree catching the sunrise
I like rocks!
The viewpoint in Glenborrodale
Some of the magnificent stone work at the lighthouse
One of many picnic areas at the lighthouse

All in all a cracking day if a bit challenging for Ally as the driver.

Posted in Achleek - April 2024

Achleek – April 2024 – day 2

Sunday is known as the day of rest and so it proved today. After a leisurely breakfast we went out for a little walk – ahead of us is Loch Sunart and behind us is a big hill so the choice was (roughly) west or east. Since we arrived from the east we decided to head west.

Quiet as this place is it is the road linking the ferries at Lochaline and Ardgour so there were clusters of traffic at regular intervals – yes, even on a Sunday! It was a beautiful calm, still morning as the photos will attest.

First thing
The cottage, the car
The morning develops well

We did see a fair bit of ‘wildlife’ including the following – our first impression was a of a large bird of prey perched in the tree. Close-ups proved us (slightly) wrong 😉

Is it a bird?
Or is it something else?

After our nice short walk we came back to the cottage to prepare ourselves for lunch. We had the foresight to identify and book at a place some 20 minutes away – the Boathouse Restaurant on the Kingairloch estate. It was a lovely drive down ever narrowing roads (and we started on single-track with passing places!) on what was by now a glorious day.

Our dinner was just superb – my cod loin main was perfectly cooked and Ally & Vanessa both had scallops which were also top notch. The drinkers (me & Nessa) had a really very good rosé (from Domaines de Météore) with it. Starters and desserts were also brilliant as were the the two people running it – the chef and a waitress who, we discovered, had lived at Sheepwash Bank which is a mere spit away from where Alison lived back in the day.

Needless to say we had a light supper – cheese & charcuterie again! – and quite an early night. One last bonus, missed by me but seen by Ally & Nessa, were the two pine martens who visit this place most nights.

Monday plans are fluid by which I don’t necessarily mean rain – we will decide as the day dawns.

Posted in Achleek - April 2024

Achleek – April 2024 – day 1

Another of our year of ‘70th birthday treats’ finds us up in the west of Scotland visiting an area we have skirted round many times but never explored in depth. With us for this particular treat is our very good friend Vanessa.

We had a particularly wonderful dinner at Osteria in North Berwick on Friday night followed by a reasonably early start on Saturday morning. We may have overdone the packing as the car was absolutely full with the 3 of us, our luggage and the ‘supplies’ we brought. The self catering cottage (Achleek) is, in broad terms, is near Fort William – more precisely it is on the shores of Loch Sunart pretty much opposite Strontian.

Saturday’s journey up was pleasant and uneventful and it was especially pleasing to have such ‘unusual’ (as in fine dry & quite warm) weather. On the way we stopped in Callander for coffee (and a purchase see below), just outside Tyndrum for a good light lunch and eventually we got the Corran ferry over to Ardgour.

Ferry terminal
Ferry
A magnificent (if small) black coo

The cottage is fine for what we need comfortable and well equipped with stupendous views to the west. A little explore revealed some neighbours (seals!). We did little else on Saturday except launch into a fine selection of cheeses and meats washed down by decent wine. Of course an early night was required

The basking seals

Did I mention facing west? The sunsets promise to be spectacular!

The end of a long day!
Posted in Achleek - April 2024

Funchal – day 6 – the last day

It doesn’t seem like a week but, apparently it is, and this is our last day here. After a cloudy (still warm) start this morning the cloud has, as the afternoon wears on, cleared a fair bit and, as I write, it is really very nice.

Today was the day without a plan – no shortage of things to do but no real impetus for either of us to do much at all. We decided after our leisurely breakfast to walk to the eastern (oldest) port of Funchal along the ‘promenade’ towards the ‘Yellow Fort’. This building stands out (a0 because it is a fort and (b) because it is yellow. No further information is available as it was clearly permanently closed. The tidal defences here are quite something and we enjoyed our gentle stroll along the way. On arrival we discovered a nice bar & stopped for a drink and good views. It was only as we worked out exactly where we were that we realised it was the very bar recommended to us by one of Ally’s pals (a keen walker and frequent visitor to Madeira).

A slow stroll back to the hotel, including the walk up the hill for the first one only time (taxi, bus or coach every other time) As I write this we are on the hotel terrace sipping on a glass of wine after our light lunch.

Tonight dinner here, tomorrow our transfer minibus picks us up between 11:30 & 12:00 and I get to pick up my lost jacket before we fly home. If all goes to timetable it will be 9pm-ish before we get finally home.

A short selection of the few photos I took today follows.

The ‘old’ boat about to fill with passengers for whale watching
The view up the valleys we scaled in the last 2 days
A fairly pointless jetty
Tidal defences
Cable car base station & another view up the way
A yellow fort!
Two old cars (apparently still used)
The bar which had excellent views of … er sea!
Posted in Funchal - March 2024, Holiday stuff

Funchal – day 5

Another very pleasant day today (which apparently is a Saturday!) all the better for being only lightly planned. It also helped that the weather remains warm, sunny and very calm.

Our first port of call was Blandy’s Wine Lodge in the centre of Funchal. It is no surprise that you can’t avoid Madeira wine on this island (my evening Negroni at the hotel has it substituting for the vermouth) and one of the recommended activities is the tour of the main producer. A very reasonable €15 a head gets you a 45 minute tour of the facility which covers all you will ever need to know presented, in our case, by an entertaining young woman.

Courtyard at the entrance
Posters in the shop
Larger barrels
Smaller barrels
The lovely 3D map of grape growing regions on the island

Towards the end of the tour the museum had personal letters from Churchill, thank you notes from various European royalty (including Princess Margaret) and a bottle of 1954 Malmsey (as old as me but worth more probably!

Winston’s letters
Priceless booze

Finally there was a tasting of the two extremes of Madeira – Sercial (the dry one) and Malvasia (or Malmsey). Both nice but still not to our taste.

Stage 2 of the day was a visit to Casa Museu Frederick de Freitas who was a collector of various things (including teapots & mugs!) and is pretty much as he left it.

One of several lovely musical instruments
Part of one of the collections
Another fine musical instrument

Adjoining the house/museum is a museum of well…. tiles. Populat round these parts this was a collection from around the world. One of those supremely focussed & well laid out museums the do. One job really well.

Tiles
More tiles!
A change of colour!
Elegant presentation of the subject – on the right a sample box

Quite exhausted by our packed morning we decided to lunch out again and went back to the Italian where we ate yesterday. Having sampled the pizza we were keen to try the pasta for main course this time but started with bruschetta. Unexpectedly this came warm and with a melted cheese topping but was really very nice. Mains were lasagna for me & cannelloni for Ally and both were excellent. I decided to got the whole hog and have a dessert. Sobramesa de Casa (literally house pudding) was a curious (almost) trifle but topped with chocolate mousse. Sounds awful but it was very good. The picture is our chosen wine which was very good – mind you the Portuguese wine has been the highlight of this holiday for us.

Very good blend!

You can see in the background that Xaramba is a simple place – the (tiny) chef working the oven, one young woman doing drinks and whatever else needed plus the waitress whose calm approach was outstanding. Shortly after we arrived a group of ten (unexpected) turned up and were taken the the stride of the small team. Even when each person wanted to pay separately!

Tonight we will have an evening tipple in the outdoor terrace bar here at our hotel and, since we stuffed ourselves earlier, the lightest of snacks.

Last day tomorrow and we have no idea of what we might do – probably not very much. One thing for sure is we will dine at the hotel since many places will be closed as it is Sunday.

Posted in Funchal - March 2024, Holiday stuff

Funchal – day 4

The days fly by when on holiday don’t they? It is hard to believe we only have 2 more full days here. Day 4 was, as it often is in new places, the one where we applied the knowledge gained so far, sprinkled that with a little serendipity and went with our instincts. Today’s main plan was always going to be the other big garden in Funchal – the Jardim Botanico. Again it is up in the hills but this time access by bus through, it has to be said, some very (very) narrow streets and at high speeds! We walked down into Funchal, caught the local bus (the fare a massive €1.95 each) and arrived before the coach tours & crowds did.

A beautiful start to the day
Decorative planting

The garden was full of delights really and also was a great vantage point for some fantastic civil engineering – the roads, bridges, tunnels, etc. are just breathtaking

Some road eh?

One of the delights of travel is the huge variety of what forms a official botanical garden and this was an excellent approach – a lot of clever planting, an almost intuitive route round and some surprises along the way (buying ferry tickets up a hill is a new one on me)

You can’t beat good signage!

The lake mentioned above by the way wasn’t all it was cracked up to be – see the next photo!

Green!
Other end of decorative planting

There was also a little surprise – those weren’t rocks but terrapins or turtles or something.

Basking
Swimming

The garden was lovely and we just happened to arrive at the bus stop in advance of the 31A back down to Funchal – an even more hair raising journey down the hill (again at great speed). Once back in Funchal we meandered around some new(to us)” back streets, found an excellent café where hot drinks were taken and then set off to seek out lunch. The food in Funchal has been (a) overwhelming (massive portions) and (b) uninspiring so hopes weren’t high. This is where serendipity & instinct kicked in – we were heading towards a recommended place and passed an Italian place. We both liked the look of it but continued on to the original target. By then we had both decided – Italian it was! We went back, got a table inside and ordered. As we did and sipped on our wine it became clear that this place – a little off the beaten track – was very much a locals kind of place. The service was brilliant, well organised and friendly Italian style and the food was very good.

Fountains in the garden

After lunch we walked a short distance to the park we have seen several times and parked ourselves on a bench to watch people browsing the craft market. On our way back to the hotel we ‘accidentally’ fell into the patisserie again and then tripped over the step into the wine shop. I am on our balcony having a glass while I write this.

We have no idea what we will be doing tomorrow and don’t intend to plan much of anything at all. Sunday we know will be a quiet one as most places will be shut.

Posted in Funchal - March 2024, Holiday stuff

Funchal – day 3

Today was up the hill day for us when we visited the Monte Palace Tropical Garden. That we even attempted it was testament to the bravery of my beloved wife Ally who, once again, boarded a cable car for the ascent. The hotel courtesy bus dropped us at the ‘Telerifico’ base station and, after a minor confusion about tickets, we did the short (15 mins) journey to the top. No photos from within the cable car for 2 reasons – one was the windows being highly reflective and the other that Ally was clasping my hand to the point that blood circulation was endangered!

Cable car base station
The view at the top

You may note the ‘impending’ weather in that latter photo and it did cloud over for much of the time we were up there but it was still warm and there was very little breeze today. Our first port of call ws a little chapel with lovely decorations and a bent crucifix behind the altar. Still don’t know anything about it.

Tiny chapel
Close up of crucifix
Tiles – of course!

We stopped for coffee at one of the many places to refresh oneself and basically then wandered around this little wonderland. All kinds of interesting things – art, music, plants, lakes, swans, flamingoes. Etc. What follows is a random selection of the many pictures taken

Cheeky statue
Even cheekier view and Ally recovering!
Random artwork
The forest paths
Where we were yesterday – church tower just visible
More garden
Pond with falls & swans
Flamingoes

Having had a thoroughly pleasant moring in the garden we had to take a look at the alternate method of getting back down the (very steep) hill. Yes by sledge – 2 burly chaps at the back steering and braking as necessary. We weren’t tempted at all but it was a fun to watch.

Back down a sea level we had another late lunch and then back to the hotel. Tonight we are dining here for a change. It was acceptable on day one, the hotel is less busy (no groups) and we just fancy staying where we are. Another factor is that portion sizes, even for snacks, here are a little beyond acceptable levels for us and we had choice paralysis about where to go 😉

Posted in Funchal - March 2024, Holiday stuff

Funchal – day 2

Yesterday (Tuesday) ended quite well really – our ‘Jet2Holidays Customer Helper’ Pedro turned out to be really helpful giving us tips on how best to do the things we wanted to do.

Following that there was the hotel’s “Welcome to our guests” event – again our expectations were quite low but a free drink and a chance to mix with other guests was really quite enjoyable. We struck up a conversation with Marie (a older solo traveller). The evening meal was as expected – for a restaurant called Beef & Wine it is fairly clear (although Ally had cod). Once again the friendly relaxed service was welcome and the food, while not epic, was perfectly acceptable.

My main – sirloin steak on a stick!

Today dawned dry and sunny and we resolved to make use of the “hop on-hop off” tour bus as recommended by Pedro. The plan today was to head west to Camara de Lobos stopping off at various points on the way – the chapel of Sao Martinho and a viewpoint (looking inland for a change)

Ally ahead for me as ever!
Not quite as ‘blingy’ as some and very quiet
A view with parked cars for effect!

Finally we arrived in Camara de Lobos. Sadly the place itself was a disappointment and while having a quick drink at a bar near the harbour we managed to miss our onward connection to Cabo Girao. Ally seemed quite relieved because that involved the “highest cliffs in Europe” and becomes the 3rd such place we have visited that claims the title!

Harbour with noisy pebble beach
Lunchtime pick-me-ups

Faced with a long wait we decided to head back to Funchal on the next available bus. Much of the route was different to the outward one and it became very clear why the area immediately west of Funchal is called the hotel district.

All was not lost though – after a little debate we decided that a late lunch/early supper called and we ended up having a pizza at The Ritz which we passed yesterday. Good food, good service and eating outside made it memorable. Naturally we stopped by the patisserie to buy in a treat for tonight.

As I finish Ally is having a bath and I am out on our wee balcony just taking it easy. Tomorrow we use the 2nd of 2 days of our tour bus ticket and we head along to the eastern end of Funchal and the ‘telerifico’ – the cable car up to Monte. Ally is being brave (not a fan of cable cars) but it should be worth it for (a) the view and (b) the Monte Palace Tropical Garden.

Posted in Funchal - March 2024, Holiday stuff

Funchal – day 1

Emboldened by the fact that my previous thing looked OK when I posted it to Facebook I will get right into today’s exploits.

The day has been shaped so far by the weather forecasts – all of which predicted rain varying from heavy to absolute deluge from lunchtime as I write approaching 4pm it doesn’t look so bad out there.

After a really quite good breakfast we set about discovering where we were and walked the 20 minute walk down to the port/town centre from the hotel. On the way a very pleasant garden (with statue of Columbus) and a fairly clear idea of weather conditions

Fountains!
Weather
Yer man Columbus

From there we made our way into the centre – this is Portugal so ceramic tile decorations are compulsory! As are startling buildings and a nice church.

The Ritz – an Italian restaurant
The bank
A service about to start
More tiles at the church

The highlight of our morning was the market hall – a fantastic place, busy and full of produce – dried fruit was very popular upstairs and the fish hall was stunning – big fish (tuna we think) and a man with a very big knife!

Fruit display
The main courtyard

We stopped for coffee on our way to the pick up point for the courtesy bus and popped into a supermarket for some bits and bobs we needed as well as, of course, picking up some lovely patisserie items for lunch.

Next on the agenda is the meet with Pedro (our Jet2Holidays Customer Helper) – we aren’t expecting a great deal but will attend out of politeness. Later tonight we are invited to a ‘get together’ with other guests (a free drink is involved) – again we will attend to be polite but must then dash off to tonight’s choice of restaurant for dinner which is called Beef & Wine (a fairly clear indication of what we might get!) More on all that tomorrow.

Posted in Funchal - March 2024, Holiday stuff